Why do a Trap Out

If you are looking for the genetics of the colony, a trap out will not work.
There are two reasons for doing a trap out.
 
If you have a hive you like the genetics of, but don't want to make a split from your hive, a trap out will give you the workers to raise a queen, or a few queens, from that hive.

Of course, the other reason is to remove the bees from an unwanted area.

Doing a removal is much quicker, more complete, as it also removes the comb, and saves a lot of travel. There are times, however, that a removal is not practical. It is those times you use a trap out to obtain more bees, and of the genetics you want, rather than the unknown. I have never worked with AFB, but think trapping may be the answer to removing them. Consider a colony established in an apartment complex, or business complex, where there are people coming and going constantly. A removal may endanger any number of people. During a trap out, the first couple of hours may see a large number of bees in the air, but they are confused, not angry, and are only looking for their home. I have never received a sting during this time.

Then there is the construction aspect. When they are in masonry, or historic woodwork, or other hard to replace material, a trap out is the way to go.



The cone, with an exit hole sufficient to allow two drones to exit together...Must be 1/8 inch hardware cloth. Screen will collapse and clog up, preventing the bees from getting out. 1/4 inch mesh will allow the bees to pass through.
A piece of plywood with a hole in it, size varying with the different jobs.

a tube of silicone caulk and caulking gun.
Screws and screwdriver
Catch box, either hive body, super, or nuc, with all frames except one.
One frame of brood and EGGS. Yes, I capitalized EGGS.
Platform to mount catch box on, preferably adjustable height.



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Trap out setup

I like to make a scouting trip to the trap out location and prepare
the area prior to setting the trap. I will use lumber, plastic,
silicone caulk, whatever will work, to reduce their entrance down to
one hole of approx. 2 inches, or 2 inches X not more than 3/4 inch, if
the opening is in a corner. After choosing or making the cone, I will
measure from the ground to the bottom of the cone. Then I can plan on
what I will use for the platform. This one had an initial entrance of 12 in. X 3 feet of rotted away wood. I crammed towels, burlap, and 2 cans of great stuff in it. Bees will eat through great stuff, if it is more than 3/8 in thick, or doesn't have a hard substance between layers of it.

I like to make a scouting trip to the trap out location and prepare
the area prior to setting the trap. I will use lumber, plastic,
silicone caulk, whatever will work, to reduce their entrance down to
one hole of approx. 2 inches, or 2 inches X not more than 3/4 inch, if
the opening is in a corner. After choosing or making the cone, I will
measure from the ground to the bottom of the cone. Then I can plan on
what I will use for the platform. This one had an initial entrance of 12 in. X 3 feet of rotted away wood. I crammed towels, burlap, and 2 cans of great stuff in it. Bees will eat through great stuff, if it is more than 3/8 in thick, or doesn't have a hard substance between layers of it.



 



Facts and Therories on Trap Outs

This is an intermediate post with a few ideas about trap outs. It will be followed by a post on checking and concluding a trap out sometime later.

Fact....If one worker finds a way back in, she will lead the rest to
that entrance. After that, they will continue to look for other
entrances. It is nearly impossible to seal all entrances if it isn't
done with the initial set up.

Theory....I think the queen reacts as if there is a dearth when the
foragers stop bringing in pollen and nectar. She quits laying.
Therefore, my belief is that the last egg is laid within a week of the
trap being set. That leaves a total of 4 weeks from set up, until the
last worker emerges. As with everything about bees, this can vary.

I have never seen a hive starve to death in the summer. I have seen
them use up all stores in a dearth in the summer and abscond.
Therefore, when a trap out runs out of stores, the queen and the
remaining bees will abscond. The majority of the time she will pass
the catch box and land on a bush in the area. From there, it is like a
swarm. If you find her in time, they can be hived. If not, they follow
the scouts.

A trap on a newly arrived swarm will many times leave within the first
2 or 3 days. They have no brood, no stores, and no reason to stay in
their new home. Many of these queens will take the catch box, many
will not. A colony that has been established for quite some time will
almost always leave the area, leaving only the bees that have taken up
in the catch box prior to the departure.

I have been told by beeks in heavy SHB areas that the SHB will
devastate a colony before the trap out can be completed.If you have a
problem with SHB in your area, you may want to do the trapouts in
early spring before the SHB get strong.

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 After setting up the Trap Out

 Once the trap is set and all entrances are thought to be closed, I try to spend from 1 to 3 hours with the homeowner. Explaining bees, traps, what they should do and some things that may be a problem. I try to teach them enough that they will check the trap and call me 2 or 3 times weekly. The assistance from the homeowner can vary from nil to doing everything you ask and some have even bought the hive when I finished.

Either by returning myself, or from the homeowner, I want an update on the trap the day after the set up, then once or twice weekly thereafter. I am looking for a mass exodus, where the cone is packed with bees trying to exit all at once, and are getting out, not a blocked cone, or a full day with no bees leaving. If the latter, it means we missed seeing the first. When either happens, I wait 3 or 4 days, then remove the cone. I will explain to the homeowner that they will see many bees returning to the house, but they are only robbing the honey out. Call me when they do not see a be go in the house for a full day. I will then check it myself by observing flight for an hour or more. If the bees are traveling to and from the field, with no action at all in the house entrance, I will seal the entrance and remove the new hive.

If at any time, the catch box has 7 or more frames of caught adult bees, I will remove it and install another, either with a queen cell from the first one, or another frame with eggs. I have gotten as many as 4 hives and a nuc from one trap.

MISSION ACCOMPLISHED!!!

This will be the last post in my series. I'm sure I have left out many things that need to be said, so I will answer any questions anyone may ask, if it is within my experience. I will also add posts, or modify these, if and when I think of things I have left out.

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 Trap Out Video Link Below

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wTqFbiaD_js

  Trap out video with Bud.